Moscow - the day of the cathedral

My last day in Moscow was a day of cathedrals.

I started the day at Novodevichy Monastery on the edge of town. This convent and monastery has great historical significance not only because it has stood in it's place since the 16th century, but also because the convent housed many woman from Russian royal and noble families. Many of these women, including Sofia Alekseyevna, sister to Peter the Great (and who was 'sent to the nunnery by her brother on account that he wished to rule) were forced into the religious life, generally by jealous and power hungry men in their families or lives. Sofia Alekseyevna's tomb is contained within the grounds of the monestary, but in winter the buidling is too cold for visiters to visit. We actually had some small snow flurries on this day, so we weren't allowed inside the building.

Novodevichy Monastery - the main cathedral



the yard

the newer church where I saw a service

Since I was here on a Sunday, I decided to go into mass and see what a Russian Orthadox mass was like. I covered my head like a good Russian Christian woman and headed into the church. It was pentecost Sunday, so before the service, the priest was changing from Easter white to Pentecost red. This was done very ceremoniously with great pomp and circumstance. The altar attendents were responsible for bringing the different pieces of his robe and changing them for him. It was very interesting to watch. The chanting in the cathedral during the ceremony was truly magnificent and the ornate decoration really created a unique ambience. Honestly, since I couldn't understand anything, the thing that struck me the most was that Russian's don't sit in church. There were no pews. Everyone just crams (literally) together in the church and does the whole mass standing up. (And I thought the sitting and standing in Catholic mass was bad... :) ) Some of the old people had small portable chairs on which to sit, but everyone else stood for the entire service. I did not stay to the end, but was glad for the experience short as it may have been.

a Russian woman covers her head before entering the church

After the service, I went to the small religious museum housed in one of the buildings on the grounds. It was interesting containing pieces of religious art and architechture from cathedrals around Moscow and the surrounding area.

After the museum, I tried to visit the cemetary, but was told it was closed. The Novodevichy cemetary is quite notable not only because it is very old, but because of the multitudes of famous people buried here. (For a list of notable burials, click here) Some of the most famous include former political figures and their wives as well as many musicians, artists and scientists. The reason the cemetary was closed on this particular day was because Boris Yeltsin, the first president of the Russian Federation, had been buried there the day before. I felt it so significant that I was in Russia for the death of such a significant person in Russia's recent history.

In fact, in the museum, they told me that an additional memorial service was being held for Yelsin that very day in teh Cathedral of Christ the Savior, downtown.

At least, I thought that was what they told me.

So, I found the cathedral on my map and headed to it. I was very interested in taking part in such a significant event.

Once at the cathedral, I waited in line to get in (after going through a medal detector).

Upon entering the cathedral, I was approached by a journalist. (I guess my clothes screamed 'tourist'). She asked me how I'd heard about the service and I told her that I had learned about it at the monastery where he was buried yesterday.

"You mean, where he will be buried tomorrow?" she questioned.

I agreed, though now slightly confused.

"Anyway... Did you like his music? Are you familiar with it?"

OH MY HEAVENS?!? WHO'S FUNERAL AM I AT???????

As my words were being documented (and as I was then and there faced with reinforcing or decreasing the perception of the ignorant American) I started thinking quickly and replied, "No, I am not too familiar with his music, but thought this such a significant event that I should come and pay my respects" Or something along those lines. Meanwhile thinking, "Oh my gosh!!! Who died? Who died?" I did infact not know if I knew of his music ... or of "him" whoever "he" was, but I tried to say what would prompt the fewest follow up questions. It worked. She took my name (ugh) and left. Whew!!! Not as embarassing as it could have been.

I later learned that the funeral was for the cellist and conductor Mstislav Rostropovich. He was internationally renowned and had worked in several countries, including conducting the US National orchestra in DC for several years. I was glad to have paid my respects to him, though at the time I had no idea who I was paying respects to.

At any rate, the funeral was interesting and the cathedral was beautiful. Everyone was taking pictures, so I snapped a few myself. Here are a few shots of the cathedral and the service.

many people came to pay their respects

(and they all knew who for!)

the inside of the beautiful cathedral

the service

many people brought flowers to show their respect

After about 20 minutes in the cathedral, I headed out - glad to move away from what had been a very akward moment! ha ha ha

Next, it was on to St.Basil's cathedral. I had seen it from the oustide in Red Square, but had not yet gone in. This was the day to explore the inside. It is such an amazing and ornate cathedral. Take a look.

St.Basil's Cathedral

the beautiful, colorful onion domes of St.Basil's

looking up

inside the cathedral

a painting of Jesus

a curving stairway

painted walls

an old door

It was a very interesting day of cathedrals, indeed. That night, I got on the train to St.Petersburg. More on that tomorrow!

Moscow - the Kremlin

It's been a while since I blogged - internet availability has been sporatic. So, this is the start of the game of catch up.

My first full day in Moscow, and Jasmin's only day, brought us first to the Kremlin. According to Wikipedia, 'kremlin' is used to refer to any fortified area. I had thought that it meant government buildings of some sort, but though the kremlins around the country do usually include government offices, that is not the official definition.

The Kremlin in Moscow is the largest one in the country. Located at Red Square it is surrounded by tall walls with watch towers. These walls themselves are beautifully built and painted.

a wide shot of Red Square

(the Kremlin is on the left)

looking at the Kremlin from Red Square

a wall and watch tower of the Kremlin

We walked through Red Square and then around the Kremlin complex to get to the park at the front gate of the Kremlin. There we saw a nice fountain and statue as well as some tulips that felt the signs of spring and bloomed just for us.

the fountain

tulips and the walls of the Kremlin

I love tulips!

Inside the Kremlin were government buildings as well as several cathedrals. I hadn't realised that there would be cathedrals. They were really beautiful both inside and out. Unfortunately I couldn't take pictures inside, so views of the outside will have to do. The picture of the paintings on the outside is similar to those found on the indside. The paintings covered the walls and ceiling with images of Christ, Mary and many of the saints. These cathedrals were used for religious purposes as well as coronation ceremonies.

Emily and some of the government buildings

The onion domes of one of the cathedrals

Some of the painting on the outside walls

Moscow - the first night

After finally getting off the train and managing the cab ride to the hostel, we climbed four flights of stairs to the Napolean Hostel. (Located in the building that Napolean actually stayed in when he was in Moscow.) Immediately inside the door to the hostel, guests are greeted by a wall full of old soviet propaganda posters.

We piled into the ten-room beds, showered (after four days on the train we needed it) and set out to do a little exploring for the evening.

Our hostel is located in a really neat part of Moscow and it was fun to walk through the stone streets and see the old buildings. Unfortunately, I don't have any really good pictures of these buildings right now, but here are some funny things we saw during our walk.

We first made our way to Red Square where we saw thousands of Russian military troops. We're not sure exactly why they're in town, but between Yeltsin's death, May day and the Russian national holiday on May 9th, we're in for tons of festivities.

It was really awesome to see them marching so perfectly in sync and in such huge numbers. They also sang/chanted what seemed to be the Russia national anthem - or some sort of patriotic song as they walked. I managed to get a video of that and it was quite amazing!

After crossing the river, we made our way to Sculpture park. This park was recommended by Ben, the Australian I met in Irkutsk. He really enjoyed it and suggested we check it out. We also had the task of adding his "modern art sculpture" to those already there. Jasmin and I didn't find the park quite as impressive as he did, but we did accomplish our task. Here I am with Ben's "sculpture" and the Pinnochio sculpture in the park.

Outside sculpture park was a giant statue of Peter the Great. Supposedly Moscow Russians don't really like it. A Russian friend of Ryan's told him that it was originally designed to be Christopher Columbus as a gift for America. But, America didn't want it (or maybe it was the cold war) and so they re-did the head/face and put it up in Moscow as Peter. I have no idea how much truth there is to this story, but it is interesting regardless. I like the statue.

Our last stop of the evening was Gorky Park. Ryan was very excited about going there because he read a book entitled "Gorky Park" in middle school and had promised himself that if he ever made it to Moscow that he would visit. And there we were. It had gotten a little chilly, so we didn't stay long, but we did have pizza and beer and enjoyed people watching for a while.

the entrance to Gorky Park

On the way home, I used the Moscow Subway (Metro) for the first time. What an amazing maze of tunnels deep below the city. The escalators are extremely tall and the tunnels are long. But, the metro can get you anywhere!