Be the change you want to see in the world -Gandhi: Moscow

My last day in Moscow was a day of cathedrals.

I started the day at Novodevichy Monastery on the edge of town. This convent and monastery has great historical significance not only because it has stood in it's place since the 16th century, but also because the convent housed many woman from Russian royal and noble families. Many of these women, including Sofia Alekseyevna, sister to Peter the Great (and who was 'sent to the nunnery by her brother on account that he wished to rule) were forced into the religious life, generally by jealous and power hungry men in their families or lives. Sofia Alekseyevna's tomb is contained within the grounds of the monestary, but in winter the buidling is too cold for visiters to visit. We actually had some small snow flurries on this day, so we weren't allowed inside the building.

Novodevichy Monastery - the main cathedral

the yard

the newer church where I saw a service

Since I was here on a Sunday, I decided to go into mass and see what a Russian Orthadox mass was like. I covered my head like a good Russian Christian woman and headed into the church. It was pentecost Sunday, so before the service, the priest was changing from Easter white to Pentecost red. This was done very ceremoniously with great pomp and circumstance. The altar attendents were responsible for bringing the different pieces of his robe and changing them for him. It was very interesting to watch. The chanting in the cathedral during the ceremony was truly magnificent and the ornate decoration really created a unique ambience. Honestly, since I couldn't understand anything, the thing that struck me the most was that Russian's don't sit in church. There were no pews. Everyone just crams (literally) together in the church and does the whole mass standing up. (And I thought the sitting and standing in Catholic mass was bad... :) ) Some of the old people had small portable chairs on which to sit, but everyone else stood for the entire service. I did not stay to the end, but was glad for the experience short as it may have been.

a Russian woman covers her head before entering the church

After the service, I went to the small religious museum housed in one of the buildings on the grounds. It was interesting containing pieces of religious art and architechture from cathedrals around Moscow and the surrounding area.

After the museum, I tried to visit the cemetary, but was told it was closed. The Novodevichy cemetary is quite notable not only because it is very old, but because of the multitudes of famous people buried here. (For a list of notable burials, click here) Some of the most famous include former political figures and their wives as well as many musicians, artists and scientists. The reason the cemetary was closed on this particular day was because Boris Yeltsin, the first president of the Russian Federation, had been buried there the day before. I felt it so significant that I was in Russia for the death of such a significant person in Russia's recent history.

In fact, in the museum, they told me that an additional memorial service was being held for Yelsin that very day in teh Cathedral of Christ the Savior, downtown.

At least, I thought that was what they told me.

So, I found the cathedral on my map and headed to it. I was very interested in taking part in such a significant event.

Once at the cathedral, I waited in line to get in (after going through a medal detector).

Upon entering the cathedral, I was approached by a journalist. (I guess my clothes screamed 'tourist'). She asked me how I'd heard about the service and I told her that I had learned about it at the monastery where he was buried yesterday.

"You mean, where he will be buried tomorrow?" she questioned.

I agreed, though now slightly confused.

"Anyway... Did you like his music? Are you familiar with it?"

OH MY HEAVENS?!? WHO'S FUNERAL AM I AT???????

As my words were being documented (and as I was then and there faced with reinforcing or decreasing the perception of the ignorant American) I started thinking quickly and replied, "No, I am not too familiar with his music, but thought this such a significant event that I should come and pay my respects" Or something along those lines. Meanwhile thinking, "Oh my gosh!!! Who died? Who died?" I did infact not know if I knew of his music ... or of "him" whoever "he" was, but I tried to say what would prompt the fewest follow up questions. It worked. She took my name (ugh) and left. Whew!!! Not as embarassing as it could have been.

I later learned that the funeral was for the cellist and conductor Mstislav Rostropovich. He was internationally renowned and had worked in several countries, including conducting the US National orchestra in DC for several years. I was glad to have paid my respects to him, though at the time I had no idea who I was paying respects to.

At any rate, the funeral was interesting and the cathedral was beautiful. Everyone was taking pictures, so I snapped a few myself. Here are a few shots of the cathedral and the service.

many people came to pay their respects

(and they all knew who for!)

the inside of the beautiful cathedral

the service

many people brought flowers to show their respect

After about 20 minutes in the cathedral, I headed out - glad to move away from what had been a very akward moment! ha ha ha

Next, it was on to St.Basil's cathedral. I had seen it from the oustide in Red Square, but had not yet gone in. This was the day to explore the inside. It is such an amazing and ornate cathedral. Take a look.

St.Basil's Cathedral